And then follows the next furniture development: A small sideboard with sliding doors.



It is built out of a plate of pine plywood that has come to light while cleaning up the shop again.

This project aims to build a tailor-made sideboard that matches with my son Christian in a niche in his room. And because space is a little tight to go there, it should get sliding.

The body

The building material is a plate 18mm thick Polish pine plywood in quality S / BB with dimensions 1240 * 2400mm. The dimensions are therefore chosen so that the entire cabinet of this plate can be built.


The depth of the cabinet is 34cm, height 60cm and width approximately 110cm. Therefore, we saw across three stripes of the plate, each 34cm width. The resulting parts have such a length of 120cm. A plate is divided in the middle and both sides of the results in the body, the other plates forming the bottom and lid.


The two side panels were provided with two rows 5mm holes spaced 32mm to be as flexible as possible later when inserting the shelves. As my tool Festool Router OF 1010 with 19mm copy ring and my proven template was used.

Thus, the parts are ready for the body and it's time to familiarize yourself with the installation dimensions of the sliding door fittings.

I've used the Slideline55 fittings . These are available in a version for plastic guide rails and in a version for aluminum guide rails. I have chosen here for the aluminum version.



Where have to be milled into the ground and cover the slots? For this, a little to be expected:
Material thickness 18mm minus fitting bore 9mm 9mm gives residual material.
The guide rail itself is 12mm wide with a 3 mm wide slot. Thus, approximately 4.5mm pad for the guide rail is needed. Theoretically, one could thus mill the slot of the first guide rail 4.5 mm away from the front edge. (9 to 4.5) But since 4.5mm plywood are the stand because not very stable, I have decided to make the first milling around 10mm away from the edge.



The grooves on the aluminum rails must be 7.5mm wide and 5.5mm deep milled. Since there is no 7.5mm Straight bits, followed by milling with a 6mm cutter in two passes. With the rip fence as a guide and fine-tune the work very well.

Sideboard13

Note: I had first thought I take as just a 8mm cutters and milling a slot - half millimeter will make already nothing. Forget it! Does not that then Führunsschiene wobbles around in the slot. This test luckily I had made in a residual piece of wood, so no damage to the right components.



Now it was time to determine the distance of the second rail. Planning at least 6 mm distance between the door surfaces are needed here. This means 6mm plus the rest of 9mm thickness of the door - ie a distance of 15mm from the center of the first milling until the middle of the second milling. Since I was not sure if that fits so, I once made the "Pass sample" and everything marked with lines. It fits!



With the respective same same setting on the router could be milled up and down because the guide rails must be perfectly aligned.
At the rear then a groove was still milled, in which the rear wall is used.

Sideboard04 Here, the depth setting of the milling machine was moved and there was an unsightly corner. Since it is located on the back and is later not to see, I can live with it.



The next step was the assembly of the body. Here come Flächdübel size 20? Used. The parts are each applied to a large angle, which I have built for me to work with the biscuit jointer.



When the biscuit position but one must make sure that the front milling is slightly behind, so as not to collide with the slots on the rails. With a piece of wood as auxiliary dimension then the position penciled always in the same place werden.Sideboard16

The body is then glued and fixed with clamps. By diagonal measurement you can make sure everything is in balance. Fortunately fits everything, only a small Different and can be corrected later with the onset of the back wall.



The back wall is made of 10mm pine plywood and is fixed with white glue and some backplane screws (flat head screws) the size 3 * 25.



In the heat of battle I had durchgefräßt with a slit to the edge. The resulting hole was sealed with a small glued-block and cut off flush. Now everything is allowed to dry and tomorrow it goes.

The sliding doors

The sliding doors are next in line. The internal dimension the sideboards is 60cm high. Since the sliding doors need each 4.5mm air up and down, the doors are 59,1mm high. The sideboard is inside 106cm wide. Thus each sliding door 53cm plus an overlap of 4 cm wide. So that makes a measure of 59.1 * 57 cm.



In order to move the doors I have just drilled 30mm holes. If desired, can I still use later recessed handles, but now the only remains then another.

Sideboard25Die sliding door fittings need 9mm deep holes with 30mm diameter. That's a good Forstner bit and a powerful cordless screwdriver to do well.
Role fittings are then inserted and screwed down with round-head screws 3.5 * 16. You can later adjust even the angle of the doors so that they also include clean about the inclination of the fittings. Therefore, until you tighten these screws is not quite as tight.



The upper sliding fittings are spring-loaded peg in a round housing. These are simply pressed into the holes and ready.

Completion



Now the time had come to treat the surface of the sideboard. Here comes again the Woodwax from Adler to use. I had already used the Solid wood cabinets and am always thrilled, because it dries quite quickly for a water-based furniture wax.
All wood surfaces were painted twice with it and after about 12 hours of drying time polished with sheepskin on the plate.



The pressing of the guide rails was carried out in sections, using a clamp and a wood block. So I was able to press in the rails sensitively and without scratches or dents in the slots.



As a base I still sawn pine strips 40 * 40mm from parts of an old solid wood cot. The sections were done with 45 degree miter. Then lengthwise separated. The sides were already painted and finished as the strips needed to be screwed only under the body.


The final step is the making of a false floor. This is cut from the last vestiges of 18mm plywood. As a shelf support 5mm bolt with collar used.



Still and lock the doors now - done!

Statistics

Because I am often asked, here some statistics about the project:
Duration of the whole work a total of approximately 12 hours that were distributed in several 2-3 hour stages over a weekend.

Tools Used:

Diving circular saw Festool TS55
Festool OF1010 router
Bosch random orbit sanders PEX400 AE
Biscuit Joiner Casals / Freud
Metabo Cordless Screwdriver

Material :

Plywood board 120 * 240cm in 18mm
Sliding door fittings
Sliding guide rails
White glue, flat plugs, screws
Woodwax Finish (1/4 can)

Total cost of material so around 92 EUR. This may seem a lot, but the sideboard is made of solid pine plywood, and thus stable for eternity. No comparison to pressboard. The high-quality aluminum rails of sliding doors are certainly not necessary comparable rails in plastic would have cost a total of just 5.50 EUR. So a considerable savings potential. But since I want to build in the near future a very large shelf with sliding doors I wanted to gain experience with the installation of aluminum rails.



What could be easier in this project?

Who also wants to build as a sideboard, but not so much mold has, I can give the following advice:


The wooden parts can be can be sawing the timber merchant, so you do not need Circular Saw.
Instead of the biscuit could simply screw together the carcass, so that one does not need a flat anchor made. (Confirmat- or Spax screws with cap or pocket holes)
You can simply drill each 4 holes only in the middle instead of the entire row of holes. This saves a lot of time and you also do not need drilling template.
Anyway, I have learned a lot again and am now in a position to allow larger projects with sliding doors in attack. Be surprised.

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6:51 PM

Material
1 x MDF raw (800 x 800 x 16 mm), rear wall
2 x MDF raw (768 x 290 x 16 mm), shelves
2 x wallpaper strips (768 x 16 x 4 mm), means bars
2 x wallpaper strips (768 x 18 x 4 mm), means bars
2 x wallpaper strips (804 x 18 x 4 mm), sidebars
1 x laminate floorboards (816 x 816 x 8 mm), rear
375 ml paint
PU-hybrid glue
4 x MDF raw (784 x 290 x 16 mm), frame parts
2 x laminate floorboards (816 x 306 x 8 mm), side panels long
32 x Universal screws (4 x 40 mm)


1st step
Place the rear panel on a table. Make two frame parts mutually aligned perpendicular to the outer edges of the rear wall.


2. step
Secure both frame parts, each with a large clamp on the rear wall. Pay attention to the squareness. Now connect the two frame parts fixed to the rear wall by 3 per Universal screws. Measure to each a lateral distance of 6 cm, the third hole is drilled in the center between them. Now the screw from the side with 2 Universal screws through the frame part with a lateral distance of 5 cm is done.


3. step
Build the frame further peripherally. Do not forget to always be pre-drilled and to reduce the holes. Then adjust the shelves upright in the final corpus, flush with the rear panel and the frame parts. The distance between the two shelves you can decide according to their ideas. Look at the alignment of the shelves to the squareness to the body. Screw the shelves as follows: laterally from the outside through the frame parts, each with 2 universal screw with a lateral distance of 5 cm from the rear by the rear wall, each with 3 universal screw and a lateral distance of 6 cm, the third hole is drilled in the center.


4. step
Place the finished design on one side. Wear with the caulking gun to PU-Hybrid glue on the upward facing side evenly. Then, place a side panel on edge-glued to the side and press it firmly. You can also complain the page with bricks or books, until the adhesive has cured. Please refer to the manufacturer's specifications. Proceed by placing the opposite side of the same principle, the body on the newly laminated side.


5. step
Thereafter, the remaining two frame parts are also refined by the same principle. Turn the body by 90 degrees so that it stands on a not yet provided with laminate side. Apply the adhesive to the upwardly facing side evenly. Then, place a side part on all sides flush with the pre-glued side and press it firmly. Complain Replace the side panel as needed until the glue has hardened. Go in the opposite side before as described above.


6. step
Tilt now the body forward, with the rear wall facing upwards. They also here the glue on the rear wall evenly. Then place the pre-assembled and tailored back flush on all sides to the rear wall and press it firmly. Depending on the way you complain Again, the cover plate with weights. Once the glue has dried, you can raise the body again.


7. step
To beautify you can decorate the edges of the rack side rails. To do so, wear on the sidebars wood glue. Insert the sidebars flush with the frame parts on and press it firmly.


8. Working Step
Now apply the glue on the broad middle strips. And insert the middle bar at the top and bottom between the side rails, flush with the inside of the frame parts and press these firmly. You can then provide the above ground in 16 mm height means strips with the adhesive. Then place the central strips flush to the visible edges of the shelves between the sidebars on. Press these firmly.


9. step
Now your coffee table shelf is finished and depending on your mood, you can use it as an open or hidden shelf or turn it over and use it as a table.

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6:47 AM

Many machines are equipped with her, with the depth limit for the tool attachment. With hand tools, things look different.

Although there are special tools, which has an adjustable depth limitation. But it does not belong strictly to the standard equipment.
A very simple depth gauge can be produced from masking tape on each blade. Measure from the tooth tips of two locations on the blade, the depth to plunge the saw maximum. Stick the masking tape strips parallel to the tooth edge on the blade. Prevent superimposed glued Several strips that the tape is pushed away during sawing and they offer little resistance when the desired depth is reached.
An alternative is a thin Leistchen which is glued with double-sided tape directly on the blade. Disadvantage: The double-sided adhesive tape can be difficult again after the metal dissolve as the masking tape.

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4:26 AM

Here I show a method for quickly creating dovetail joints in a combined operation with hand tools and the router.


To produce dovetail joints there are two extremes: Working by hand with a saw and chisel or with the router and a device for finger joints such as the WoodRat.

The prongs manually is actually not very difficult, only the working out of the tines is relatively time consuming. It does not matter if you work only with the chisel or with a combination of Beitel and scroll saw.
In the operation described now I have used combined hand tools and router to work noticeably accelerate.



The material I have some cheap glued panels used here from the hardware store.


rough surface. At this price, of course, is to be expected not a very high-grade material, but quite useful for such experiments.

The result is a simple box or a simple chest, whereby the dimensions of the offered material yield. Since the glued panels are 80cm long, this is also the length of the box, just as there is the width of 30cm.

When side panels so come each 2 plates used for the faces two sections are sawn from 34cm length. Why this measure? Now, the material thickness of 18mm must be taken into account, because I want to use for the ground one of the glued panels on their full width.

The Swallows

First step is the production of the swallows. Here you can save time in that they are made in pairs. This is possible because the two cuts parallel to the wooden surface of both plates.

With the marking gauge the thickness of the wood is removed and is characterized at both ends.



Here it turned out that the boards are different thicknesses - not only between the individual plates but also from one side of the plate to the other. A plate is left 16.4 mm thick, but almost left 18,9mm - more than 2.5 mm difference. This I will therefore use later as a floor.



With my installation angle, the two plates are clamped to the workbench and swallows it be marked with the zinc template. The distances can be freely chosen, that is, it is done by eye everything.
All the wood is to off later, will be clearly marked to avoid careless mistakes.



With a back saw the cuts are placed - this is always cut in addition to the line drawn in the area of ​​material to be removed. So the dimension lines remain visible and the saw can be performed easily.

After all saw cuts are carried out, a rectangular wooden victim is additionally spanned 3cm flush with a cross-section of approximately 3 * at the rear of the two boards.

Now, the router is used.



In my little Makita Hand cutter I used a 12mm end mill and adjust the depth on material thickness. Switch on the machine and gradually by milling the material between the Swabians.


When this goes on 3-4mm deep layers from front to back abfräst all without pressure and vibrations. Here are the results after milling.


The zinc base is very nice uniform and smooth. Naturally at your sides a little rest stops because the end mill there is only straight edges. (Can mill a zinc mills of more than 18 mm long edges I did not)



But that's no problem. With the scroll saw these residues are removed quickly. The here and there residual ridge can be reworked with a sharp chisel.



Now repeat the whole thing again on the other side of the side pieces and the swallows are done. After almost 50 minutes, I was at your first destination.

The tines

It continues with the tines. Here, the parts can be processed only singly, since the tines are inclined backward. However, the side surfaces are perpendicular and so you can work out the spaces completely with the router.

The side panels with the swallows are placed and transferred the exact curves of the edges with the sharp pencil. The herauszufräsende material is also selected again.



Again a victim wood is clamped behind the board to increase the bearing surface for the router again. Another measure is the installation of a larger base plate at the Makita router.



In addition I have changed the square base plate from swiveling Fräskorb on the vertical hand-held food hamper. Thus, the cutter has a wider circulation and can be performed more easily horizontally. Since the cut surfaces of the teeth are perpendicular, can be dispensed with the sawing. You can deal directly with the mills gradually to the pencil lines
approach to work.
Here is the result of the milled teeth:



In the same way the other three sides are processed.

The assembly

This was followed by a first test of how well the milled swallows and tines fit. Without glue everything was assembled.



The swallows and tines sit surprisingly well at first, the connections are tight and no gaps. While projecting the prongs because of fluctuating thickness of Leimholzbretter something out, but with the plane or the belt sander that is smoothed later quickly.



The bottom of the chest is milled on the longitudinal side at about 10mm depth. This is done with the router, a 12mm cutter and mounted stop rail. An approximately 10mm deep groove is milled then in the narrow side parts with the 10mm cutter, which is performed with about 2 cm distance from the edge.



In this groove the floorboard is then used without glue. Thus the ground is securely anchored and can still work side in humidity.



Then, the tines are all glued and fixed with one hand clamps to cure the Weißleims.


A first conclusion

The use of the router while working out the prongs worked better than I thought the first. If you look at gradual approach scans you get with the freehand guided routing machine very exact swallows and especially a smooth zinc base. However, the router used must be small and portable. Here the little Makita RT0700C has proved very successful. With my midsize Festool OF1010 that would surely be already borderline.

But the experiment was worth it. The manufacturing of all zinc compounds and preparing the ground took less than 3 hours - including a short coffee break.

Turbozinken40

And what's the downside? At the end you have a lot of fine shavings all around the workbench around. Because you need a clear view of the router, you can not suck unfortunately. To wear goggles here is required!
At the end of this workshop day, therefore change of clothes and a shower is inevitable.

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3:56 AM